We just had to get one, it was inevitable. I’ll be the first to admit that after the Traxxas Slash was released I thought the short course race truck craze was nothing but a fad that would soon be all but forgotten. After all these are nothing more than stadium trucks with different tires and a larger body. What could really be that great? Then one day at the local hobby shop I saw one sitting on the shelf begging to be bought and the rest, as they say, is history. Here goes, our Team associated SC10 build.
Last year Team Associated debuted their first short course race truck, the 1/8 scale SC8 which was a 4wd nitro powered beast based off the ultra successful RC8 buggy chassis. That was all fine and well but what about us electric fanatics? Well this January Team Associated answered our prayers with the SC10. Just like with the SC8, Team Associated chose to base the SC10 on a proven platform, the RC10T4 stadium truck (surprise surprise). Just like the T4 the SC10 features a molded composite chassis, blue anodized aluminum oil filled shocks, and a slipper clutch.
The SC10 comes in two forms, a RTR version that comes assembled and includes everything you need, and also a kit version. Since we love building these things it was only natural that we went with the kit. Here it is…
The first thing we should tell you is that unlike the RTR the kit version needs a number of items to be complete. As usual it needs an electronic speed control, and 2 channel radio system. However unlike some of the previous builds we’ve done the SC10 also needs a few other items, like a motor of your choosing, and the proper sized pinion gear to go along with it. We had a 27t stock motor laying around so thats what we chose to use, including the recommended 19t pinion gear. Also the kit version includes a clear body without the licensed decals so if you want one of those awesome pre-painted licensed bodies you’ll need to purchase that seperately.
More pictures of the box…
Time to see what is in the box
Upon removing the wheels from the box I was surprised to see how odd they are made. I guess when Team Associated was creating them they had to decide whether to make them so they handled well or looked scale and with an innovative wheel design they got both. To achieve this the inner bead of the wheel is molded larger than the outer bead. This allows the wheel to look scale in appearance while having minimal sidewall flex.
The tires with the included foam inserts
Here are the tires mounted. We feared that gluing up the tires to these strange looking wheels would be a nightmare but in the end they weren’t much different than mounting any other set of tires. Note how the outer sidewall is so much taller than the inner ones shown above.
The supplied decals. We would really like to see Team Associated include a set of their licensed decal sheets with this kit in the future. These decals are a bit on the bland side so we chose to use only a couple of them. The rest will be all paint!
Here is a little snippet of the instruction manual. Team Associated makes some of the best manuals around!
Of all the kits I’ve ever built I believe this one had the most parts bags ever. Odd since the truck didn’t seem to be made up of that many parts. This picture shows only some of the bags included in the kit.
Well I guess its time to start building this thing. As you’ll see we decided that for this build we were going to let the pictures do most of the talking. We’ll chime in from time to time when necessary. BTW please excuse some of our grainy pictures, we were having flash problems on our camera.
Just like on its sibling, the RC10T4, the SC10 features a molded composite chassis made to give the truck a low center of gravity.
The first thing the instruction manual has you build is the front steering bellcrank system. Like most Team Associated vehicles the SC10 features an integrated steering servo saver.
Here are the front suspension arms still on the parts trees.
Next up, installation of the front hubs…
..and installing it all to the chassis
Another shot of the steering setup installed on the chassis.
Since the chassis is so much narrower than the body Team Associated included these nifty little nerf bars. They’re basically there to stop the body from completely deforming upon side impacts.
The rear suspension arms installed on the chassis…
Next item on our agenda is to assemble the gearbox. The SC10 includes a gear type differential, pictured below. Word is that since the SC10 shares so many parts of the RC10T4 stadium truck that the T4’s ball diff can be dropped right in the SC10’s gearbox. Nice!
Here is the tranny assembled with the gears installed.
The SC10 features an externally adjustable slipper clutch just like any self respecting race truck should. Team Associated recommends tightening the nut until it sits flush with the end of the shaft and then tightening it three full turns. During your first couple of shakedown runs you should recheck this setting. We found ours to need a little extra tightening.
Another photo of the assembled tranny
A couple of shock towers, a few screws, a little time and here is what we got, a fairly complete chassis. As you can see the SC10 features fully adjustable steel turnbuckles for setting the camber and toe in/out.
Here is a picture of the underside of the large front bumper included with the SC10 kit.
Another look at the transmission installed on the chassis…
One of the coolest additions included in the SC10 kit are these tiny mud flaps. Believe it or not they’re actually functional. After our first couple of runs we noticed that the mud/dirt was sticking to the mud flaps rather than being flung up onto the underside of the body.
Closeup picture of the rubber mud flaps
With the chassis ready it was time to assemble the shocks. The kit includes these blue anodized aluminum beauties. Since the front and rear shocks are of different lengths be sure to keep an eye on which shafts and springs you install on each.
The assembled shocks. The picture shows what the instruction manual suggests when it comes to preload spacers. We eventually removed spacers from both to get the truck to sit right. Just follow the setup instructions in the back of the manual and you’ll have no problems.
Almost a roller…
View from the front…
…and the rear
The completed front suspension
She’s ready to roll. We decided to run a 27t motor and speed control we had handy. Although this setup would be fine for a beginner this truck really needs a ballistic brushless setup.
Its a little surprising when you first see how large this body is. Pictures don’t do it justice. Here it is mounted and trimmed.
From the rear, check out how the molded bumper sticks out of the rear, and the mud flaps hang down…very cool.
We wanted to do something a little special for this body and since we recently aquired a vinyl cutting machine we chose to design and cut this little vinyl window net decal for it.
The window net decal before installation
Here she is all her painted glory. We chose to use our vinyl cutter to create a few awesome (if we do say so ourselves) vinyl skull paint masks. A few coats of black and then a few of white and here is the result.
Another of the side
Right front bones
Finally a shot of the body with our custom window net, how cool is that!?!
Like I said earlier, I really didn’t expect much from this truck as I thought it was nothing more than a stadium truck with a bigger body. Wrong. There is something about these short course trucks thats hard to put your finger on. They just feel so realistic. When hitting bumps the suspension pushes up into the body and over jumps it drops down just like a full size race truck. It feels so plush but somehow has no problem absorbing hard landings. We set up a small ramp to see how the truck reacted in the air and expectedly it soars and lands much like a stadium truck. We installed a 27t stock motor our truck but in all honesty I dont think you’ll be happy with its speed with anything less than a good brushless system. What else can I say, these things are just plain fun!